Day 1

Day 1

The day began with a smooth journey to Ypres direct from our arrival point at Zeebrugge. After a good overnight sleep on the ferry, and full English breakfast, the boys were excited to visit our first site; Essex Farm Cemetery.

At their first glance, many of the boys were struck by the uniformity, and plain white gravestones of the cemetery. This was purposeful, as indeed Sir Frederic Kenyon summed up his vision for the Commission cemeteries in February 1918 

'the general appearance of a British cemetery will be that of an enclosure with plots of grass or flowers (or both) separated by paths of varying size, and set with orderly rows of headstones, uniform in height and width...

Exploring the site, the boys learnt that Essex Farm stands on the site of a Field Hospital staffed by the famous Lieutenant-Colonel John McCrae, author of the famous poem, In Flanders Fields. McCrae's words had a powerful effect on many contemporaries, and some argue his poem, and description of his experiences, led to the adoption of the poppy to symbolize the sacrifices of the First World War. 

"In Flanders fields the poppies blow

Between the crosses, row on row,

That mark our place; and in the sky

The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago

We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,

Loved and were loved, and now we lie

In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:

To you from failing hands we throw

The torch; be yours to hold it high.

If ye break faith with us who die

We shall not sleep, though poppies grow

In Flanders fields."

Walking through the cemetery, were also able to find the grave of a Victoria Cross recipient. Reading the citation of Thomas Barrett VC, the boys learnt about the purpose of the Victoria Cross, and the great bravery that Thomas Barrett displayed during his service in July 1917. 

Proceeding soon after to Langemarck German Cemetery, the boys were introduced to the experiences of German soldiers on the front lines of Flanders. Many were struck by the utilitarian nature of the cemetery, with the dark plaques and austere metal plates of the memorials at Langemarck, in stark contrast to the clean white gravestones of Essex Farm. Indeed, some asked why there was such a difference between the two, and discovered that the events of 1918 led to separate arrangements for the dead of both sides, resulting in the pronounced differences which endure even today.

After a quick but hearty lunch prepared by the culinary duo that is Mrs Croxton and Mr Fawcett, we quickly made tracks to Tyne Cot Cemetery. This extensive War Grave contains the bodies of nearly 12,000 Allied soldiers, of whom over 8,000 are unidentified. Mr Cook explained the tactics used by the soldiers of the time, which saw horrendous casualties, and the devastating effect of artillery on massed formations of men. Some of the boys spent their time in contemplation of the sacrifice of these soldiers, and discussed with Mr O'Malley the origins of the Pals Battalions and the adversity they faced.

Later, at Hill 62, the boys were able to explore a modern recreation of First World War trenches, and learnt about the kind of tactics used in trench warfare, as well as the horrors of No Mans Land. The more adventurous of the group explored the bunkers and dark tunnels which criss-cross the site, though all managed to return to the bus in one piece!

After a long day of touring the battlefields, we repaired to our hotel in the historic town of Ypres, and enjoyed a stunning meal in the town square. Soon after, we made the short walk to the Menin Gate, to pay our respects to those lost on the Ypres Salient, including 12 old boys of the school. Having laid a wreath on behalf of the school, we headed back to the hotel for a well-deserved early night.

Further details tomorrow!